A standard 10×12 concrete patio costs $800–$2,500 for materials and labor. The biggest cost factors are size, thickness, finish type, and whether you pour it yourself or hire a contractor. Here's the full breakdown.
Quick answer: Plain concrete runs $6–$10/sq ft installed. Stamped or decorative finishes push it to $12–$20/sq ft. A typical 12×12 patio (144 sq ft) costs $900–$1,700 for plain or $1,700–$2,900 for stamped.
| Patio Size | Plain ($6–$10/sf) | Stamped ($12–$20/sf) |
|---|---|---|
| 8 × 10 | $480–$800 | $960–$1,600 |
| 10 × 10 | $600–$1,000 | $1,200–$2,000 |
| 10 × 12 | $720–$1,200 | $1,440–$2,400 |
| 12 × 12 | $864–$1,440 | $1,728–$2,880 |
| 12 × 16 | $1,152–$1,920 | $2,304–$3,840 |
| 16 × 20 | $1,920–$3,200 | $3,840–$6,400 |
| 20 × 20 | $2,400–$4,000 | $4,800–$8,000 |
| Material | Cost |
|---|---|
| Concrete (ready-mix per yd³) | $125–$175 |
| Concrete (bags, 80-lb each) | $5.50–$7.50 |
| Rebar (#3 or #4, per 20-ft stick) | $6–$12 |
| Wire mesh (per 5×10 sheet) | $8–$15 |
| Gravel base (per ton) | $25–$50 |
| 2×4 form lumber (per 8-ft board) | $4–$7 |
| Form stakes (bundle of 10) | $8–$12 |
| Expansion joint material | $5–$10 |
| Concrete sealer (per gallon) | $25–$50 |
| DIY Total (10×12 patio) | $350–$650 |
| Finish | Cost/Sq Ft |
|---|---|
| Broom finish | $6–$8 |
| Smooth/trowel finish | $6–$9 |
| Exposed aggregate | $10–$15 |
| Stamped concrete | $12–$20 |
| Stained concrete | $8–$14 |
| Polished concrete | $10–$18 |
| Factor | DIY | Professional |
|---|---|---|
| Cost (12×12 plain) | $350–$650 | $900–$1,700 |
| Time | 2–3 days (including prep and cure) | 1–2 days |
| Tools needed | Mixer or wheelbarrow, screed, float, edger | Included |
| Skill level | Moderate — finishing is the hard part | N/A |
| Quality | Varies — depends on your experience | Consistent, professional finish |
| Best for | Small slabs under 100 sq ft | Anything over 100 sq ft or decorative |
Patio size — the biggest factor. Larger slabs cost less per square foot due to setup efficiency, but the total price is higher.
Concrete thickness — 4" is standard for patios. Use 5–6" for areas supporting a hot tub or heavy loads. Every extra inch adds roughly $1–2/sq ft.
Finish type — plain broom finish is the cheapest. Stamped, stained, or polished finishes add $4–$12/sq ft in labor and materials.
Site prep — sloped or rocky ground costs more to grade. Expect $200–$600 extra for challenging sites requiring excavation or significant grading.
Reinforcement — rebar adds strength for heavy loads; wire mesh is adequate for standard patios. Rebar adds $0.50–$1.50/sq ft.
Permits — check local requirements. Some jurisdictions require permits for pads over 200 sq ft, adding $50–$200 to the project cost.
Geographic region — concrete costs 20–30% more on the coasts vs the midwest. Labor rates vary similarly.
Old patio removal — demolishing and hauling away an existing slab adds $2–$4/sq ft, or $300–$600 for a typical 10×12 patio.
Calculate your exact concrete volume and bag count with our Concrete Calculator. See our concrete coverage table for a quick thickness-to-yards reference.
A 12×12 (144 sq ft) plain broom-finish patio costs $864–$1,440 professionally installed, or $350–$550 in materials for a DIY pour. Add $500–$1,500 for stamped or decorative finishes.
Generally yes. Plain concrete runs $6–$10/sq ft vs $10–$20/sq ft for pavers. However, pavers are easier to repair (replace individual pavers vs patching concrete) and don't crack. Stamped concrete that mimics pavers costs about the same as actual pavers.
4 inches is standard for foot traffic and patio furniture. Use 5–6 inches if the patio will support a hot tub, heavy planter, or occasional vehicle access.
It depends on your jurisdiction. Many areas don't require permits for a simple patio slab that doesn't involve plumbing or electrical. However, some require permits for any concrete work over a certain size (often 200 sq ft). Check with your local building department.
A properly poured and sealed concrete patio lasts 25–50 years. The most common issues are surface cracking (cosmetic, not structural) and scaling from freeze-thaw cycles. Sealing every 2–3 years extends the life significantly.
Spring and fall are ideal — moderate temperatures (50–80°F) give the best curing conditions. Avoid pouring in extreme heat (concrete cures too fast and cracks) or freezing temperatures (water in the mix freezes and weakens the slab).