Building a fence solo is absolutely doable — it's one of the most common DIY outdoor projects. The work is repetitive (which is good — you get better as you go), and the only truly hard part is digging post holes. Rent a power auger and you'll cut the hardest day down to a couple hours. This guide covers a 100 linear ft, 6 ft tall privacy fence from start to finish.
Difficulty
Intermediate
Time (solo)
3–5 days
Cost (100 ft)
$1,500–$3,000
| Item | Est. Cost | |
|---|---|---|
| 4×4 posts (8 ft long) | $100–$210 | |
| 2×4 rails (8 ft long) | $210–$336 | |
| 1×6 or 5/8×6 fence pickets (6 ft) | $600–$1,200 | |
| Quick-set concrete (80 lb bags) | $140–$200 | |
| 3" exterior screws | $20–$30 | |
| 1-5/8" exterior screws or galv. nails | $20–$30 | |
| Gravel (for post hole drainage) | $5–$10 | |
| Post caps | $30–$70 | |
| Total | $1,125–$2,086 |
Calculate exact pickets, posts, rails, and concrete for your fence with our Fence Calculator. See our Fence Cost Guide for a full pricing breakdown.
This is step 1, not step 0. Building a fence on your neighbor's property is an expensive mistake. Find your survey pins or get a survey ($300–$500). Call 811 to mark underground utilities — free and required by law. Wait for markings before digging. Also check if you need a permit and what your local setback requirements are. Talk to your neighbors too — it's just good practice.
Drive stakes at each end and all corners. Run string line between them. Mark post locations every 8 ft along the string with spray paint. This spacing works with standard 8 ft rails without cutting. Adjust the last section if needed rather than having uneven spacing throughout. Double-check every measurement.
Each hole should be 12 inches in diameter (3× the post width) and 24 inches deep minimum. In cold climates, go below the frost line (36–48 inches). Solo tip: if using a manual post hole digger, do ALL the holes first before setting any posts. It's faster to stay in "digging mode" than switching between digging and setting. Rent the power auger — 14 holes by hand is a full day of brutal work. With an auger it's 1–2 hours.
Add 2–3 inches of gravel in the bottom of each hole for drainage. Place the post, check plumb with a level on two adjacent sides. Brace it with scrap lumber screwed to the post and staked to the ground. Mix quick-set concrete in a wheelbarrow and fill the hole to 2 inches below ground level. Crown the concrete away from the post so water sheds off. Quick-set concrete firms up in 20–40 minutes. For the even easier method: pour dry mix in the hole and add water — the bag literally says you can do this for fence posts.
Once corners are set and firm (wait at least 1 hour for quick-set), run a string line between them at the top. Set all intermediate posts aligned to this string. Check plumb on each one. This is what makes a fence look straight or drunk. Take your time here — a crooked post line is visible from 100 feet away and there's no fixing it once the concrete sets.
Ideally 24–48 hours before hanging rails. Quick-set concrete can technically take rails after 4 hours, but overnight is better. Use this time to sort and inspect your rails and pickets. Pull aside any warped boards — you can cut them for shorter sections or return them.
Mark rail positions on each post: top rail 6–8 inches from the top of the pickets, bottom rail 6–8 inches from the bottom, middle rail centered between. Solo tip: this is where clamps save your sanity. Clamp one end of the rail to a post, check level, then screw it in. Move to the other end. Without clamps, you'll be trying to hold an 8 ft board, a level, and a drill at the same time — it doesn't work. Use 3-inch exterior screws, two per connection (toe-screw at angles). Or use rail brackets ($1–$2 each) for a cleaner look.
Start at one end. Hold the first picket against the rails with the top at a consistent height (use a string line or spacer block). Drive two screws per rail — that's 6 fasteners per picket. For a privacy fence, butt pickets together with no gap. Check plumb every 5–6 pickets. If you're drifting, adjust gradually over the next few pickets rather than making one big correction. Solo tip: screw a temporary ledger board to the posts at the bottom rail height. Rest pickets on it while you fasten. This acts as a third hand.
You have two options for sloped terrain. Stepped: each section is level but they step up or down at posts — looks more formal. Grade-following: pickets follow the ground contour, top line is wavy — looks more natural. For stepped, just set each section's rails level. For grade-following, let the bottom of the pickets follow the ground and snap a chalk line across the tops to trim them even.
Add post caps ($2–$5 each) to prevent water from soaking into the end grain — this is what rots posts from the top. Optional but recommended: stain or seal the fence within the first year while the wood is still fresh and absorbs stain well. After a year of weathering, the wood closes up and stain doesn't penetrate as deeply.
Fence not on your property — You may have to tear it down. Get a survey — it's $300–$500 and saves you from a $3,000+ mistake.
Posts not plumb — Fence looks crooked forever. Check every post with a level on two sides before the concrete sets.
Posts not deep enough — Fence leans or falls in wind. Go to frost line depth in cold climates, 24 inches minimum everywhere.
Concrete above grade — Ugly and traps moisture against the post, accelerating rot. Keep concrete 2 inches below ground level.
Rails not level — Pickets look off even if they're individually plumb. Level every rail.
Not pre-drilling near board ends — Screws split the wood. Drill pilot holes whenever you're within 2 inches of a board end.
A 100 linear ft privacy fence takes 3–5 days solo. Day 1: layout and post holes (the hardest day). Day 2–3: set posts in concrete and let cure. Day 4–5: attach rails and pickets. A power auger for post holes saves an entire day of work.
At minimum, 1/3 of the total post length should be in the ground. For a 6ft fence with 8ft posts, that's 24 inches deep. In cold climates, go below the frost line (36–48 inches) to prevent frost heave pushing posts out of the ground.
A 100 linear ft pressure-treated 6ft privacy fence costs $1,500–$3,000 in materials. Posts ($7–$15 each × 14), rails ($5–$8 each × 42), pickets ($2–$4 each × 300), concrete ($5–$7/bag × 28), plus hardware. Cedar costs 30–50% more.
Most areas require a permit for fences over 6ft tall. Many require permits for any fence in a front yard. Some HOAs have strict fence rules. Check your local building department AND your HOA before buying materials.
8 feet on center is standard and works perfectly with standard 8ft rails without cutting. You can go up to 8ft, but don't exceed it — wider spacing causes rails to sag and the fence to look wavy.
Screws hold better and don't pop out over time. Use 1-5/8" exterior-rated screws for pickets (two per rail = 6 per picket). Ring-shank nails are the next best option. Smooth nails will work loose within a few years.